Page 14 - Frittenden Parish Mag - April 2024
P. 14

Kent in the Kitchen                                                                                                                    Historical Society

      It’s asparagus                                                                      Kent Miners’


      season again…                                                                       Strike 1984


      Rebecca Warren                                                                      Sue Betts

                                                                                          Kent is not immediately associated with the
      It’s asparagus season again and this year                                           National Coal Strike of 1984-5. Our February
      we’re taking a brief look at the history of this                                    speaker, Keith Whitnell, also brought a different
      delicacy. Asparagus has a long pedigree, and                                        perspective to the strike. Keith was a young police
      was known across the Ancient Western world.                                         constable in Kent at the time, and was to marry
      The oldest recipe is found in De Re Coquinaria                                      the sister of a Kent miner. He had been bussed
      (‘On Cookery’), compiled by the Roman                                               to Yorkshire and Nottingham to aid police in
      writer Apicius, probably during the fourth-                                         those counties. While he acknowledged that
      fifth centuries AD, though he was probably                                          many actions by the police were wrong, he had
      recording food that had already been in the                                         seen much provocation by the striking miners,
      repertoire of the classical world for many years.                                   particularly when he had been at Markham
      Asparagus appears again in the written record                                       Colliery, Nottinghamshire. A strong union man
      in Europe around the C15th and by the C17th it                                      himself, he saw this as a political strike rather
      had made the leap into immortality by featuring                                     than one to improve working conditions.
      in the diary of Samuel Pepys, who in April                                          The conditions for the policemen bussed-in to
      1667 noted that he had ‘brought home with   Simply serve with their own delicious   the Midlands were poor. At one time they were
      me from Fenchurch St [London] a hundred of   Hollandaise sauce (Tarragon preferred by the   quartered in some squash courts in Lincolnshire.
      sparrowgrass, cost 18d. We had them and a little   magazine team) or French dressing.  These turned out to be on a live RAF jet station and
      bit of salmon, which my wife had a mind to…’                                        they were woken early in the morning as the jets   In Kent, the mines were physically divorced
      In 1765, a Welsh recipe book recommended                                            took off on patrol. However, the police were paid   from the rest of the industry (although they
      asparagus soup, made with 100 asparagus spears                                      for being on duty for 18 hours per day, including   formed part of the East Midland region) and
      and 2 lettuces boiled until tender in 6 pints of                                    overtime                               received little support from the NUM. Kent
      water, then blended and boiled for a further                                        payments, plus                         established soup kitchens for the striking miners,
      2-3 hours(!) before adding cream and flour.                                         additional pay                         providing one meal a day, although only for those
      Perhaps the intention was a slow simmer to                                          for working on                         on the picket line.
      reduce the volume?                                                                  rest days. Keith
      Mrs Beeton’s Cookery Book (1st published in                                         acknowledged                           After a few months the Kent miners increased their
      1861) contains several asparagus recipes, including                                 that the strike                        agitation, and Kent police called on reinforcements
      one for a boiled pudding, which must have made                                      was very                               from South and South-West England. These were
      something like a Yorkshire pudding containing                                       advantageous to                        housed at the former Hover Port site at Ramsgate
      asparagus and ham. She noted, too, that whilst                                      him financially.                       which had good facilities.  Betteshanger colliery
      in season from April to July, asparagus was also                                    While some                             began a sit-in at the mine. The management took
      available tinned all year round. This is still the case                             policemen had                          the opportunity to sack the occupying miners for
      today, of course, but now is the season to                                          received special                       trespass. The Kent strikers remained firm with
      eat it fresh.                                                                       training and                           very few ‘strike-breakers’ in the county and stayed
      Traditionally asparagus season starts on                                            equipment,                             out until the strike ended after nearly a year in
      St George’s Day which this year is 22 April.                                        most still had inadequate uniforms, helmets and
      For local asparagus the magazine team                                               forms of defence. Communications were poor,   March 1985.
      recommend Frogshole Farm on the Sissinghurst                                        with few radios and those available not compatible   Today there is little evidence of the Kent Coal
      Road. The sign for asparagus will go up the first                                   between the various forces on duty. When stationed   industry. However, recently the Kent Mining
      day it is available (there is also info via their                                   at Markham none of the vans sent up from Kent   Museum was opened on the Betteshanger site, now
      Facebook page).                                                                     returned as they were all so badly damaged.   the Betteshanger Country Park.

      14    Frittenden Parish Magazine April 2024                                                                                           Frittenden Parish Magazine April 2024    15
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