Page 16 - Frittenden Parish Mag - June - 2021
P. 16

Kent in the Kitchen                                                                                                                         Student View



      A taste of                                                                          As a cash strapped Exeter University student, I   My experience
                                                                                          needed to make money over Easter to afford the new
                                                                                          Brewdog pub that had opened in town. A friend
      Asparagus                                                                           of mine told me about the census work and we   working on
                                                                                          both signed up to the job. After countless hours of
                                                                                          verifying documentation, I was accepted onto the
                                                                                          role. My position was called a census mobile officer   the census
      Rebecca Brown talks to                                                              and I started online training on 23rd March and
      Frogs Hole Farm                                                                     had my first shift on the 29th. My role was to be the   William Booth-Clibborn
                                                                                          polite reminder to get people to fill in their census.
                                                                                          The impolite reminders have started making the
      Kent has long been known as the                                                     rounds now so watch out!               Phil Betts’ excellent article on March 1st shows the
      Garden of England and in a world that                                               I had a 37 hour week and wanted to open up the rest of   interesting uses of the data that previous censuses
      is increasingly dominated by global                                                 the week for revising for exams. I would work 11 hours   have collected. The information is used to inform
                                                                                                                                 government policy and spending, so they may know
      enterprises, it’s worth enjoying the good                                           a day on foot and outdoors for the whole time. Rain   the composition of the country. Scotland delayed their
                                                                                          or shine I was outside knocking on doors. I had to use
      things that we produce here in our own   swing. In ideal conditions, young shoots   the loo in McDonalds as there was no time to walk   census until next year as they did not want Covid and
      ‘back yard’. So to get us off to a glorious   can grow up to 10cm a day - so fast it must   home. They provided a work phone that had a list of   lockdowns to influence their data.
      start, let’s celebrate asparagus!      almost be possible to watch them emerge      all the addresses I had to visit that day. I would record   I was very lucky in that most people I visited were very
                                             from the soil. Picking stops in late June to   if I spoke to anybody at the property and provide them
      Asparagus has been grown and sold at   allow the plants to rebuild their strength for   with provisions if they had difficulties filling it in. This   apologetic and friendly. Often people had not filled
                                                                                                                                 in the census because they could not fill it in. Many
      Frogs Hole Farm on the southern edge of   the following year.                       included large font forms, a phone number where a   people had severe learning disabilities or were elderly. I
      the parish for over forty years, a tradition                                        phone operator can talk them through the form, and   did have one near miss on my first shift. I came up to a
      continued by Lois McIntosh since she took   Mature asparagus plants reach up to 150cm   exemption if they were not capable of filling it in at all.   secluded house, there was a fogged window beside the
      over in 2016. Although some of the crop   high, and are covered with delicate ferny                                        door so I could see who was inside. A man inside was
      used to be sold to restaurants in London,   foliage, beloved of flower arrangers. A                                        on the phone and came up to the door. He saw me but
                                                                                                                                 did not open up. A neighbour then called to me saying
      such is the demand that nowadays sales   relation of that other delicacy, samphire,                                        ‘Get back he pulled a 12” carving knife on me earlier.”
      take place entirely at the farm-gate and   there are several cultivars: Frogs Hole                                         I got back as fast as I could. I had missed the
      word that ‘Frogs Hole is open now’ gets   specialises in mid-sized green stems -                                           neighbours when I came to the house, they were
      around the locality very quickly indeed.  known as ‘sprue’ - but some varieties                                            already calling the police. It turns out the man was
                                             produce purple stalks and it is possible                                            meant to be going to prison that evening, the jury had
      Asparagus is an ancient food; many classical   to blanch the new stems to produce                                          found their verdict that morning. I decided to take the
      writers, including Cato and Pliny, discussed   a white asparagus.                                                          afternoon off after that.
      its cultivation and use. It was widely grown                                                                               My supervisor was a very caring woman and ex-Flybe
      in England by the sixteenth century, and   Lois believes that green asparagus offers                                       employee. She had worked for 15 years at the company
      Thomas Hill in his Gardener’s Labyrinth   the best flavour and recommends either                                           before they went bust in March this year. My other
      (1577) recommends ‘sperage’ [asparagus]   slicing it raw into a lightly cooked omelette                                    colleagues were either retirees or other students
                                                                                                                                 looking to make some cash. Occasionally we would
      for a host of ailments including kidney   or steaming it and serving with a balsamic                                       buddy up for visiting houses that we knew were
      stones, toothache and bee stings!      glaze and shavings of parmesan or another                                           dodgy. One lady loved to show photos of her cats
                                             well-flavoured hard cheese. It also makes                                           and tell stories of jellied pigs trotters that she ate as
      Traditionally the cropping season runs from   a great soup, but with such a distinctive                                    a child in Romania.
      St George’s Day (23rd April) to Midsummer   and special flavour, the simplest treatment
      (21st June) although this year’s cold, dry   seems best: serving it with melted butter                                     It was an interesting experience that kept me busy over
                                                                                                                                 Easter. When the next census inevitably rolls around, I
      spring has delayed the crop by several   or a drizzle of olive oil might be just be the                                    would highly recommend working on it. The hours are
      weeks - but happily the season is now in full   very best thing.                                                           flexible, and the pay is great for a student.


      16    Frittenden Parish Magazine June 2021                                                                                            Frittenden Parish Magazine June 2021    17
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