Page 17 - Frittenden Parish Mag - June - 2021
P. 17

Kent in the Kitchen                                           Student View



 A taste of   As a cash strapped Exeter University student, I   My experience
      needed to make money over Easter to afford the new
      Brewdog pub that had opened in town. A friend
 Asparagus   of mine told me about the census work and we   working on
      both signed up to the job. After countless hours of
      verifying documentation, I was accepted onto the
      role. My position was called a census mobile officer   the census
 Rebecca Brown talks to    and I started online training on 23rd March and
 Frogs Hole Farm  had my first shift on the 29th. My role was to be the   William Booth-Clibborn
      polite reminder to get people to fill in their census.
      The impolite reminders have started making the
 Kent has long been known as the   rounds now so watch out!  Phil Betts’ excellent article on March 1st shows the
 Garden of England and in a world that   I had a 37 hour week and wanted to open up the rest of   interesting uses of the data that previous censuses
 is increasingly dominated by global   the week for revising for exams. I would work 11 hours   have collected. The information is used to inform
                                             government policy and spending, so they may know
 enterprises, it’s worth enjoying the good   a day on foot and outdoors for the whole time. Rain   the composition of the country. Scotland delayed their
      or shine I was outside knocking on doors. I had to use
 things that we produce here in our own   swing. In ideal conditions, young shoots   the loo in McDonalds as there was no time to walk   census until next year as they did not want Covid and
 ‘back yard’. So to get us off to a glorious   can grow up to 10cm a day - so fast it must   home. They provided a work phone that had a list of   lockdowns to influence their data.
 start, let’s celebrate asparagus!   almost be possible to watch them emerge   all the addresses I had to visit that day. I would record   I was very lucky in that most people I visited were very
 from the soil. Picking stops in late June to   if I spoke to anybody at the property and provide them
 Asparagus has been grown and sold at   allow the plants to rebuild their strength for   with provisions if they had difficulties filling it in. This   apologetic and friendly. Often people had not filled
                                             in the census because they could not fill it in. Many
 Frogs Hole Farm on the southern edge of   the following year.   included large font forms, a phone number where a   people had severe learning disabilities or were elderly. I
 the parish for over forty years, a tradition   phone operator can talk them through the form, and   did have one near miss on my first shift. I came up to a
 continued by Lois McIntosh since she took   Mature asparagus plants reach up to 150cm   exemption if they were not capable of filling it in at all.   secluded house, there was a fogged window beside the
 over in 2016. Although some of the crop   high, and are covered with delicate ferny   door so I could see who was inside. A man inside was
 used to be sold to restaurants in London,   foliage, beloved of flower arrangers. A   on the phone and came up to the door. He saw me but
                                             did not open up. A neighbour then called to me saying
 such is the demand that nowadays sales   relation of that other delicacy, samphire,   ‘Get back he pulled a 12” carving knife on me earlier.”
 take place entirely at the farm-gate and   there are several cultivars: Frogs Hole   I got back as fast as I could. I had missed the
 word that ‘Frogs Hole is open now’ gets   specialises in mid-sized green stems -   neighbours when I came to the house, they were
 around the locality very quickly indeed.  known as ‘sprue’ - but some varieties   already calling the police. It turns out the man was
 produce purple stalks and it is possible    meant to be going to prison that evening, the jury had
 Asparagus is an ancient food; many classical   to blanch the new stems to produce    found their verdict that morning. I decided to take the
 writers, including Cato and Pliny, discussed   a white asparagus.   afternoon off after that.
 its cultivation and use. It was widely grown   My supervisor was a very caring woman and ex-Flybe
 in England by the sixteenth century, and   Lois believes that green asparagus offers   employee. She had worked for 15 years at the company
 Thomas Hill in his Gardener’s Labyrinth   the best flavour and recommends either   before they went bust in March this year. My other
 (1577) recommends ‘sperage’ [asparagus]   slicing it raw into a lightly cooked omelette   colleagues were either retirees or other students
                                             looking to make some cash. Occasionally we would
 for a host of ailments including kidney   or steaming it and serving with a balsamic   buddy up for visiting houses that we knew were
 stones, toothache and bee stings!   glaze and shavings of parmesan or another   dodgy. One lady loved to show photos of her cats
 well-flavoured hard cheese. It also makes   and tell stories of jellied pigs trotters that she ate as
 Traditionally the cropping season runs from   a great soup, but with such a distinctive   a child in Romania.
 St George’s Day (23rd April) to Midsummer   and special flavour, the simplest treatment
 (21st June) although this year’s cold, dry   seems best: serving it with melted butter   It was an interesting experience that kept me busy over
                                             Easter. When the next census inevitably rolls around, I
 spring has delayed the crop by several   or a drizzle of olive oil might be just be the   would highly recommend working on it. The hours are
 weeks - but happily the season is now in full   very best thing.  flexible, and the pay is great for a student.


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